BMinkz

Lash Manual

Advanced Eyelash Extension Training

Table of

contents

CHAPTER 1:

CHAPTER 2:

CHAPTER 3:

CHAPTER 4:

CHAPTER 5:

CHAPTER 6:

CHAPTER 7:

CHAPTER 8:

CHAPTER 9:

CHAPTER 10:

• Lash Extensions 101

• Supplies
  
• Setting Up Your Space & Supplies
  
• Sterilization, Disinfecting & Sanitization
  
• Self-Care
  

• Lash Growth Cycle
• Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths
  
• Designing the Perfect Set
  

• Prep
  
• Retention Killers

• Quiz/Case Studies
  

• Process
  
• Application
  

• Allergies
  

• Removals
  
• Refills

• Pricing
  
• Marketing
  

• Glossary
  

Lash Extensions 101

Lash Extensions 101

Supplies

MUST HAVES

• Lash Trays
• Tweezers
• Gel Pads
• Tape
• Lash Glue
• Primer
• Bonder
• Microswabs
• Nano mister
• Mini Fan
• Lighting
• Lash Bed
• Spoolies
  

• Lip Brush Applicators
• Lash Cleanser
• Lash Cleansing Brush
• Squeeze Water Bottle
• Hygrometer
• Lash Cart/Organizer
• PreEmpt/Alcohol/Bleach/Barbicide
• Sterilization Tray
• Glue Ring/Jade Stone
• Lash Tiles
• Remover
• Consent Forms
• History Forms

Setting Up Your Space

ESSENTIALS

• Lash Bed/Recliner
• Hydraulic Stool/Chair
• High Level Disinfectant
• Lash Cart

• Lash Pillow
• Humidifier
• Ring Light/Stick LED
• Disposable Dental Bibs
  

Setting Up Your Space

RECOMMENDED

• Framed Certificate(s)
• Mirrors
• Lash Bed Cover

• Rug
• Decor
• Guest Seating

Sterilization, Disinfecting & Sanitization

IMPORTANT DEFINITIONS:

BIO-BURDEN: The total # of viable bacteria that have yet to be sterilized

SANITIZATION: Reducing the number of active microbes on surfaces

DISINFECTING: Eliminating all germs and bacteria beyond sanitization

STERILIZATION: Completely killing all bacteria, microbes, fungi, and viruses

LOW-LEVEL DISINFECTION: Noncritical, comes into contact with intact skin

INTERMEDIATE-LEVEL DISINFECTION: Mix of semi-critical and noncritical items

HIGH-LEVEL DISINFECTION: Comes into contact with non-intact skin and/or mucous

Self-Care

Self-Care

Medical History & Refusing Clients

• Frequent Cysts/Styes
• Alopecia
• Bells Palsy
• A condition that may cause you to continuously open your eyes
• Skin Trauma Around the eyelid
• Trichotillomania
• Blepharitis
  

Medical Related Cases that Require A Doctor's Note:

• Chemotherapy (must wait 6+ months)
• Dry Eyes Syndrome
• Any eye/eyelid-related surgery
• Glaucoma
  

Lash Growth Cycle

There are 3 stages of the lash cycle that occur over the course of 3 months. The baby stage is when there is active growth - called the "Anagen" stage - which lasts for approximately 8 weeks. The next stage is the "Catagen", also known as the "transition" phase. This is when the natural lash detaches from the blood supply and no longer grows. The final stage is the "Telogen" phase. This is when a baby lash begins to grow and will shed the prior lash. The lash growth cycle is lengthy - to be a reliable lash tech you need to prioritize lash health over money - ultimately being able to turn away clients when their lashes aren't suitable rather than taking them for the money

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

Classic Diameters:

0.10mm, 0.12 mm,

0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.20mm

Classic Curls:

C, CC & D

Classic Lengths:

Most common:

9mm-15mm

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

Volume Diameters:

0.02mm, 0.03mm,

0.05mm, 0.06mm, 0.07mm

Volume Curls:

C, CC & D

Volume Lengths:

Most common:

12mm-25mm

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

DIAMETERS - CHEAT SHEET

Acceptable Classic Diameters:

0.15, 0.18, and 0.20 are the most common individual lashes to apply. The thicker the natural, the higher the diameter of the false lash you can apply. It is important to learn how to differentiate natural lashes and understand what diameter is appropriate to apply.

Acceptable Volume Diameters:

0.05, 0.07, and 0.10 are the most common volume lashes to apply. The thicker the natural, the more false lashes you can apply. These diameters are also used in hybrid sets - commonly the fans are made of 0.07 and the remaining 50% is full of 0.18 indivisual lashes.

Acceptable Mega Volume Diameters:

0.02 and 0.03 are the most common mega-volume lashes to apply. The thicker the natural, the more false lashes you can apply. 0.03 is the most common to apply and looks very fluffy and full.

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

DIAMETERS - CHEAT SHEET

Acceptable Classic Diameters:

0.15

0.18

Acceptable Volume Diameters:

0.07

- Max 6 Lashes per natural lash

Acceptable Mega Volume Diameters:

0.02mm

0.03mm

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

Curls:

C, CC, and D curl are the most common when creating classic sets. My personal favourite to work with is C/CC curl. C curl is proven to have better retention due to the curl being straighter so there is more room to adhere to the natural lash. D curl creates a more dramatic and full-looking set; however, the other curls generally have better retention. L & M curl are gaining popularity, L curl creates the "fox eye" look, while M curl is a more relaxed C curl. When a client has naturally downturned straight lashes you need to use D curl unless the client requests otherwise, if you use c curl the lashes will barely show - it'll look more like an "eyeliner effect". It is important to note depending on the brand the curl may vary. Try to stick with same brand to ensure uniformity.

C Curl

CC Curl

D Curl

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

Classic Lengths:

+3mm

+3mm

+3mm

Lash Diameters, Curls & Lengths

Volume Lengths:

-12mm

+12mm

+12mm

Designing the Perfect Set

Doll Eye

Cat Eye

Squirrel Eye

Open Eye

Designing the Perfect Set

Basic Mapping

--------

Squirrel Eye

Cat Eye

Doll Eye

Open Eye

Designing the Perfect Set

Wispy/Strip Lash Mapping

What Is The Difference Between Normal, Wispy and Strip Lash Volume?

UNIFORMED VOLUME

STRIP LASH VOLUME

WISPY VOLUME

BASIC CAT EYE MAPPING - WISPY VS STRIPLASH

+2mm

+2mm

+4mm

+4mm

+2mm

+2mm

+4mm

+4mm

VS

Wispy Map

Note: you can add more spikes and add spikes of different lengths, wispy sets are meant to be a little messy.

Strip Lash Map

Note: Strip Lash sets are meant to be clean, spikes must be directioned and lengths must compliment eachother

Designing the Perfect Set

Common Eyeshapes + Ideal Style

Hooded Eyes

Round Eyes

Up-Turned Eyes

NOTE: "normal eyes" (not turned in any direction & average size) are suitable for all styles, use your client's preference to determine your lash map.

Preparations

Adhesive

Lash glue is extremely crucial and sensitive. You need to ensure your humidity is accurate as well as your temperature. The following recommendations will ensure you have good retention and that your glue works effectively. When the humidity/temperature is too high, it will speed up the dry time of the glue, possibly creating a false bond between the false lash and natural lash causing the lash to fall off within a few days. Low humidity will cause the glue to take longer to dry, create "stickies", and it could also cause the glue to shock cure and turn white. Although the glue will dry a few seconds after attaching, the glue into fully cure until 24 hours after the service. Despite this, you can use certain techniques to speed up the cure time. Nanomisting at the end of the set will "shock cure" the glue, it will not turn white when using a nano mister because it is a very controlled amount of water misted onto the lash. Additionally, you can use a bonder, which will also flash cure the glue. I use both, many just use one or none.

REQUIRED STEPS:

• Shake your glue for 1-2 minutes before dispensing or use a glue shaker for 20 seconds
• The temperature of your environment should be between 17°-23° and the humidity should be 40-60%
• Store glue in an airtight container
• Change your glue dot every 20-30 minutes (shake for 30 secs before using)
• Do not store the glue in the fridge
• Replace the glue bottle every 4-6 weeks
• Always neutralize the glue after using it to avoid fires (add water to your glue ring)
  

Preparations

NOs

Despite lashing being relatively straight forward when you get the hang of it, there are definite "NOs" that you should follow in order to satisfy clients and protect yourself. These tips include:

• DO NOT recommend any cleanser other than lash cleanser to your clients, this includes baby shampoo & face wash, these are a potential threat to retention
• DO NOT put bonder in your nanomist to "short cut" it becomes ineffective
• DO NOT put the glue dot near the clients face (leaving jade stone on forehead) it puts your client in danger
• DO NOT use inadequate lengths/diameters just because you ran out, refuse the service
• DO NOT post client pictures without their consent
• DO NOT begin service without the client signing a consent form
• DO NOT have any pets in the room of service
  

Retention

Killers

Lash Tech's Fault

• Improper isolation
  
• Improper placement
  
• Extremely low/high humidity
• Not enough glue
• Wrong dry time
• Not shaking glue before use/not changing glue dot

Client's Fault

• Oil based eye makeup
• Steaming hot showers/steam showers/saunas
• Not washing the lashes everyday
• Baby shampoo/Micellar water as lash cleanser
• Coming to appointment with dirty lashes
• Picking/Playing with lashes
• Sleeping on face
  

Quiz/Case Study

You can use Lysol/Clorox wipes to clean your lash tweezers.

○ True

○ False

If the client has "droopy" eyes and wants a cat eye style, you should do a cat eye map.

○ True

○ False

Humidity affects how well the glue performs.

○ True

○ False

0.07, 0.10 & 0.25 are the ideal diameters to use when completing a classic set.

○ True

○ False

A client comes in for a long mega volume set - they give you a map that their previous tech used, and they request lengths 20-25mm. Are you able to mimic the set exactly?

○ Yes, as long as their natural lashes are strong and thick enough

○ No, the lengths are too long/heavy and the set would damage their natural lash

Quiz/Case Study

Process

ALWAYS PERFORM A LASH BATH, lash baths are extremely important to ensure great retention. Pump 1 pump of lash cleanser onto each eye, then use a squeeze bottle to remove all of the cleanser and oil

FAN & APPLY GEL EYEPADS + TAPE, adding tape on top of the pads helps with any baby bottom lashes getting stuck to the false lash

PRIME (if nessessary) - clients with dry hair & skin do not need primer as it will dry out their lashes too much and ruin the bond of the false lash

BEGIN APPLICATION - create handmade fans or pick up and individual lash and begin to isolate, when isolated you can dip into the glue and apply the false lash to the natural. keep the tweezers isolating for 3-4 seconds to ensure no stickies

COMPLETING THE SET - check for any lashes stuck to the eye pad, bond + mist, wait 3 minutes then you are able to remove the gel pads

Application

FANNING

Types of Fans

REMINDER: All fans require a thin and snatched base to maintain lash health

Narrow: creates a "darker" and "denser" looking set, you can use this type of fan when the client desires a dark lash line

Normal: this form of fan is used in hybrid and lighter volume sets.

Wide: creates a "wispier" and "fluffier" looking set, these types of fans are normally used when clients have sparse lashes or client wants a fluffy mega volume set

Spike: creates a textured looking set, these types of fans are normally used in Strip Lash and Wipsy sets, you can also use them to create a fuller classic looking set

Application

FANNING

How to Fan

Using this technique, you will pick up 3-20 lashes and pull them towards you. When your lashes are in a perfect rectangle you can then use the tips of your thumb and index fingers toward your chest, so they're perpendicular to you. Depending how much pressure you apply while pinching determines how wide the fan will be.

Application

ISOLATION

Isolation is one of the most important parts of the lashing process. Isolating is when you use your tweezers to separate one NL from the others. Sticking a false lash to multiple NLs will cause damage to the natural lash such as traction alopecia. When isolating you have to attach the false lash and keep your tweezers separating the lashes for a few seconds. Depending on how quickly your glue dries will vary how long you have to keep the lash isolated. You can isolate with two kinds of tweezers, there are straight tweezers or curved isolation tweezers (as shown in the images below). Depending on your trainer, isolating with your pinky nail may be suggested, depsite this I warn to please do not do this, it can be incredibly unhygenic.

Proper

Isolation

Poor

Isolation

Application

NL & Placement

Application

NL & Placement

Brittle Lashes

Noticable Gap

Lashing natural lashes that are not suitable for extensions will result in poor retention as well as damage to the natural lash. Many clients who have brittle lashes are not suitable candidates to get this service. As you service more clients you will notice a few clients will come in for fills with singed lashes, this is a result of smoking too close to the lashes or going too close to an open heating element such as an open oven. When you come across a case of singed lashes you need to remove them immediately, SImilarily if a client comes in for a fill and has noticeable gaps due to pulling or plucking their lashes, it is best to remove their lashes and refuse further service and they are damaging their lashes and can potentially blame you or your work for it.

Application

GLUE USAGE

Inserted the lash too high

Inserted the lash too low

Inserted the lash perfectly

Glue usage and the dip are extremely important. Always aim to dip the lash in the middle of the glue and ensure to pull the lash out at a moderate speed. Pulling the lash out of the glue rapidly will result in a "glue blob" at the end of the lash. Whether or not the glue has good retention, if you're not using the glue correctly, it will automatically ruin your set.

Allergies

Signs & Symptoms

Commons Signs & Symptons

• Itchiness
• Soreness
  

• Swelling
• Redness
  

• Irritation
• Tearing

Removals

2 Main Methods of removal, they are used differently for different circumstances. Both are equally effective. A "full removal" requires lash remover while the "banana peel method" does not require any additional material.

Banana Peel Method:

Only use this method during refills to remove the outgrown lashes This method allows you to remove lashes in an efficient manner. You perform this by grabbing the natural lash with your isolation tweezer, then grabbing the false lash with your fanning tweeze, you are to then carefully "pull back" the false lash in order to release the adhesion. In rare circumstances, you may find yourself having to use this method if a client comes back with an extreme allergy.

Full Removal

Using a professional gel, cream or liquid remover, you generously apply it to the base of all the false lash bonds and leave for the directed time. After waiting the required time, you can begin to "loosen" the bond by using micro swabs and begini to lift the bases - they should slide off.

Refills

Refills require one more additional step than a normal set, this step is called "removing grown-outs"

What Are Grown-Outs?

Grown-outs are a natural part of the lash cycle, as the natural lash grows, so does the extension that is attached. Every fill appointment will require the technician to remove the grown-outs using the "banana peel method". Not every lash will need to be removed, only select ones caused by slipping or rapid growth cycle. If a client comes in with majority grown-out lashes you should advise them to pre-book their fills earlier.

3+ Week Grown Out

After Fill

Pricing

Marketing

The way you market and promote yourself with determine how successful your business will be. Creating social media account is a MUST, that being said, you need to take advantage of the features that come with social media accounts. Try to refrain from buyer followers.

Followers ≠ Clients

The best way to gain clientele is through word of mouth and referrals, to do so, you need to provide excellent customer service as well as a great experience.

Ways to Promote:

• Social Media Ads
  
• Loyalty Program
  
• Referral Program
• Facebook Groups
• Instagram Reels
• Tiktok
• Giveaways
• Commenting & Staying Active on Other's Posts

Glossary

KEY WORDS

♥ Bio Burden: The total # of viable bacteria that have yet to be sterilized

♥ Blepharitis: Dry, crusty, and itchy infection caused by oil buildup (dirty lashes)

♥ Classics: 1 False lash to 1 Natural Lash 1:1

♥ Diameter: The width of the false lash

♥ Disinfect: Eliminating all germs and bacteria beyond sanitization

♥ Hybrid: Equal mix of fans and individual lashes in a set

♥Isolation: Separating the natural lashes using tweezers

♥ Lash Mites: Eyelash mite outbreak on the base of extension due to improper aftercare

♥ Length: How long the lash is

♥ Mega Volume: 11-20 false lashes in a fan

♥ Sanitization: Reducing the number of active microbes on surfaces

♥Sterilization: Completely killing all bacteria, microbes, fungi, and viruses

♥ Removal: Detaching all the false lashes from the natural lashes

♥ Retention: How well the false lash stays adhered to the natural lash

♥ Volume: 2-10 false lashes in a fan